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How to wax a snowboard | Dope Magazine

Have you stashed your board away since last winter? Give it some TLC before you hit the mountain with a much-needed wax. Yep, this small act has a big impact – waxing keeps your plank in top condition and running smoothly on the hill. 

But don’t just leave it to your local snowboard shop to sort out. Why not save your beer money and learn how to wax a snowboard yourself? It’s quick, easy, and we’ve walked you through exactly how to do it in a few simple steps. So, set up your workshop and freshen your setup. You’ll soon be able to wax your board in your sleep (although don’t because, you know, hot wax is involved!). 

And you’ll want to look as smooth as your newly treated ride, right? Then check out our latest drop of men's snowboard jackets and women's snowboard jackets. There’s nothing like a little incentive to wax, get out there, and show off your style. 

Step-by-step guide to waxing a snowboard

1. Gather your tools

Gather your tools

Of course, you’re going to need a few vital tools. So, gather a screwdriver, structuring brush, cloth, scotch pad/wire brush, edge sharpener, and the tools mentioned below. 

Then, set up your workshop and bench (if you have them). If not, any stable surface will do, as long as it’s at least half the length of your snowboard. Our go-to is setting up two chairs. Simple. Oh, and don’t forget to wax in a garage or outside if it’s not too cold. Things can get messy! 

Wax

Ah, the key player! Hot wax comes in various colors and types, designed for different temperatures and conditions. There are waxes specifically for warm weather and spring riding, and waxes specially designed for cold weather. Not sure which to pick or planning to ride in various conditions? Choose an all-temperature wax (also known as ‘universal wax’). It’s designed to handle everything!

Iron

This can be a specific waxing iron or your regular clothes iron. Saying that, though, don’t use your regular iron on your clothes after it becomes your designated wax iron! However, between the two, we recommend a snowboard/ski-specific iron, as these have a completely flat surface. Why is that a good thing? It spreads the wax evenly – and that’s what we’re after!

Scraper

Spoiler alert: you’ll use a scraper to remove the wax. It’s a [usually] rectangular piece of plastic or metal with a straight edge. You can choose whichever you’d like, however, plastic is much better when you’re starting out. Metal is usually more precise and great for honing repairs or removing really stubborn pieces of wax, but can damage your board if you’re not careful.

2. Loosen/remove your bindings

Loosen/remove your bindings

Before doing anything else, remove your bindings as you’ll be working on the board while it’s upside down. Plus, you don’t want your binding screws anywhere near the surface of the base when you iron. That’s because heat and metal as a combo are a big no-no. 

If you forget – and you go near your bindings with the iron – the screws can conduct heat, expand, and forever damage your board. We’ve seen grown riders reduced to tears over this simple (but common) faux pas. 

3. Clean the base

You want to wax on a shiny, clean surface. So, that means removing any dirt or old wax from your board’s base with a nylon brush and cloth. You can also grab a citric-acid base cleaner if your base is super dirty (it’s also awesome for removing old helmet stickers!). 

Though, if you’re just topping up a recent wax job and the base is already clean, you can use a warm damp cloth and then just wax over the old wax. Layers aren’t a bad thing, it’s dirt and grime you’re trying to avoid.

4. Melt the wax

Now for the fun bit! For this, you’ll need your iron. Wait until the iron reaches medium heat (or the recommended temperature instructed on the packaging). Make sure it’s not smoking, though! Then, hold the iron around two to four inches above your base and press the wax against it. You should see the wax drip down onto your plank. Now move the wax and iron around your board. 

Drip a line around your stick’s edges (about an inch from the very edge) before zigzagging up the middle to fill the center. Ideally, you want a few inches between each drop. And don’t go crazy – you can always drip more on if needed. 

5. Spread the wax

Spread the wax

Next, you need to spread the wax. Move your iron in small circles until one area is covered with a thin layer. Then, move on to another spot (including the nose and tail). The result? A nice even coat with zero dry patches. 

Remember to keep the iron moving so the base doesn’t overheat. No one wants an iron-shaped blister on their board! Ouch! 

6. Leave to cool

Now, let everything work its magic. This means leaving the wax to cool and set – typically around 20 to 30 minutes. So, make a coffee, stand back and admire your skills, or read another Dope Mag article.

This is where patience really is a virtue. Scrape too soon, and you’re at risk of undoing all your hard work, as the board’s pores won’t hold on to the wax! Don’t be tempted to leave your plank out in the snow to cool down quickly, either. You want it at room temperature. If your snowboard is too cold, the pores won’t open enough to absorb anything and will just push the wax back out. 

7. Start scraping

Okay, we take it back: this is the fun bit! Once the wax is cool, reach for your scraper and keep it at a 45-degree angle to the board. Then, scrape off the wax by pushing the scraper away from you. 

Our top tip? Work from nose to tail with long, overlapping, continuous strokes. Ride switch a lot? You can change your scraping direction, but it’s pretty standard to scrape from nose to tail (the same way most boards ride). You’ll want to keep going until any visible wax is gone and your stick’s surface is smooth and even. Don’t worry – the wax is still there. It’s in the base’s pores, which you can’t see with the naked eye! 

8. Buff the base

Buff the base

Now, it’s time to shine (well, the base!). Take your scotch pad and work on each area with three or four hard, even strokes. Then, grab your structuring brush and move from nose to tail. This exposes the base's structure so you – and your board – can ride smoother and rip faster. 

All this will definitely leave behind a lot of wax dust. So, add the pièce de résistance by wiping the base with a damp sponge or smooth cloth to remove any debris. This will give your plank that lovely shine – and more stoke to charge those mountains!  

9. Don’t forget your edges 

You could have the smoothest base on the planet, but leave wax on your edges, and you might as well not have any. Plus, carving will soon become way less fun. So, double-check your finished product and use the notch at the end of the scraper to get rid of any lingering wax. 

Oh, and why not sharpen those edges while you’re at it? Grab your edge sharpener and set it to 90 degrees (the standard setting for beginner to intermediate riding). You can sharpen your edges at 89, 88, and 87 degrees if you’re more advanced or a regular racer. You’ll want to run your tuner down the edges with long, smooth strokes, removing burrs and other nicks until it’s as smooth as it can be. Unfortunately, it’ll never be the same as it was coming out of the factory. But don’t worry, that just means you’re riding hard enough!

FAQs

How often should I wax my snowboard?

Every time you ride, the wax rubs off your board. So, some riders believe in waxing their snowboard every three to five days to keep it in tip-top condition. However, it really depends on how often you head up the hill. For example, if you only ride once a season, wax your plank at the start, and you’ll be set. Ride every day (and are the envy of everyone around!)? Keep to the three-to-five-day rule. 

However, your board’s base also plays a part. For example, do you have a sintered base? That means it’s more porous and can hold tons of wax. You’ll really feel how much faster and smoother it is over a ‌waxed extruded base. However, neglect your sintered base by not waxing enough, and it’ll run way slower than an unwaxed extruded base. There’s also the terrain to think about. Ice and crust lift wax quicker than pow. Okay, that might be a lot to think about, but watching out for telltale signs will dictate when you treat your snowboard. So, let’s jump to the next Q …

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How can you tell when your snowboard needs a wax? 

You can tell when your snowboard needs a wax by how it feels. If you’re used to ripping but start slowing down while your crew flies past you, it’s probably time for a fresh wax. You’ll also feel sluggish transitioning from edge to edge. Alternatively, flip your board over and look at the base. Does it look dry and white? Book it in for its next treatment. Yep, waxing is like watering a plant. Once it’s hydrated, it springs back to life. 

You see, it’s all down to the pores. Your snowboard’s base is covered with tiny pores, which fresh wax fills. When your base is dry and needs a refresh, the empty pores increase friction and resistance, slowing you down and stopping you from gaining speed. Ignoring the signs of a needed wax can also accelerate wear ‘n’ tear on your base (eek!). So keep waxing to look after your board, and your board will look after you. 

What are the most common mistakes when waxing a snowboard at home?

Sometimes, getting the hang of waxing a snowboard can take a few tries before nailing it. Just avoid these common mistakes, though, and you should be golden:

  • Forgetting to remove your bindings.
  • Using too much wax. Remember – you don’t need a lot to feel the difference.
  • Waxing in too-cold temperatures. This means the pores won’t open to absorb the goodness.
  • Overheating your base by not moving the iron or focusing on one spot for too long.
  • Creating a build-up by not scraping your board enough.
  • Using a rub-on wax. While these do the trick temporarily, they’re no substitute for regular hot waxing! 
What are the most common mistakes when waxing a snowboard at home?

Do I need to wax a new snowboard?

Nope! Most snowboards come with a factory wax and tune. So, you don’t need to wax your plank before its first-ever lap. However, factory wax lasts less time than an iron-on hot wax. So, if you’re riding hard and fast on your new whip, wax it after the first two to three days.

Going away with your brand-new board? Don’t forget to pack some wax to treat it on the go. This will keep things smooth and speedy. 

Wrapping up

Check you out – you’ve just waxed your board at home – and we’ve made it through this article without weaving in The Karate Kid’s ‘Wax on, wax off!’ line. Oh … Anyway, your board’s now ready to get out there and show the mountain what you’re made of! Don’t forget to keep it up, too – regular waxing is the perfect recipe for ensuring your board lasts longer, rides faster, and turns smoothly. Bliss. Plus, you can keep beating your crew at those head-to-head races to the bar. Have more questions about the task – or just want to say hi? Drop our team a message at crew@dopesnow.com. They’re always stoked to hear from you!

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