How to tune a snowboard

Ah, tuning. It’s simple kit maintenance to keep your board in awesome shape so you can keep carving ‘n’ cruising at your usual pace. And typically, the tuning process involves edge work, base repair, and waxing. Easy! 

Sure, you could book your board into your local shop for a service, but the whole thing is straightforward enough to do at home. Plus, it’s super satisfying! So how do you start? And what does each stage involve? Forget running to YouTube or Google! Dope Mag’s here with our simple five-step guide to cover all bases (and repair them!). 

And once your board’s tuned, there’s one thing left to do: get back on that mountain. Of course, you’ll want to match your newly sharpened edges with some sharp style, right? Then check out our latest collection of snowboard pants and snowboard coats!

Snowboard tuning tips

1. Gather your tools

Unless you’re Inspector Gadget, you’ll need tools to tune your snowboard. Don’t worry – they’re not overly costly. Plus, it won’t be long until you save money compared to paying your local snowboard shop to do it.

To tune your snowboard, you’ll need:

Buy them as individual items, or grab a tuning or service kit. These usually include an edge sharpener, scraper, P-Tex stick, and waxing iron. Oh, and don’t forget to remove or loosen your bindings before tuning your snowboard (that’s what the screwdriver’s for!). This is important if you’re planning to wax your base. That’s because screws and heat aren’t a good combo. If you use your waxing iron with the screws in, they can expand, causing permanent damage to your precious steed. And no one wants that!

2. Tune the edges

Over time, edges dull, burrs develop, and gear-staining rust builds up on your snowboard, reducing your max speed and your board’s responsiveness. Hello, faceplants! So, we sharpen the edges to restore smoothness and reduce hook, increase turn consistency (especially when carving), and up our edge hold on ice and hardpack. Did you know, though, that there are two surfaces on each edge? You’ll find the base (lying flush with the base material) and the side (running along the side of the board). So, consider your tool choice. For example, an edge tool can simultaneously sharpen both surfaces on each edge. Meanwhile, a file tackles one surface, so you’ll need to repeat the process for the base and side edge.

To tune and sharpen your edges, lock your board into place on its side using a table or workbench, or place your board across two chairs. Alternatively, invest in a vice to hold the board upright. Next, smooth any visible burrs with a gummy stone. Then, grab your file or edge tool – making sure it’s perpendicular to your board’s edges – and drag it from nose to tail while maintaining light pressure. Repeat this one-direction movement until those bumps ‘n’ burrs have disappeared and your edges are sharp ‘n’ smooth. Lastly, scrape your fingernail over the edges to test whether they’re razor-sharp or still need work. Happy? Flip your board to the other side. And repeat. 

Use the 90-degree angle option on your edge sharpener or file guide. 90 degrees is the angle most snowboard edges have when they’re straight out of the factory and box-fresh, as this angle provides max responsiveness and turn initiation. However, some riders prefer a more aggressive angle (87-89°) on the edge sharpener to create more ‘bite’. This is super handy for racing or shredding hardpack! And which edge surface you tune also affects performance. Sharpen the base edge, and you’ll turn easier. Sharpen the side edge, and the board becomes ‘grabbier’, adding some satisfying grip, control, and ‘bite’ as you turn and stop.

3. De-tune the edges

Okay, de-tuning your edges after tuning them might sound mega confusing. But this step is about manipulating how your board performs – especially for jibbers and park rats. 

So, what is de-tuning? It’s dulling or ‘rounding’ the edges in specific areas of the nose and tail to remove any sharpness and, ultimately, make your snowboard less ‘grabby’. This is particularly important for board slides. You see, newly sharpened edges don’t mix well with rails, tables, butters, and park laps, as you’re more likely to catch an edge. So, make the edges smoother with a stone or file held at about a 45-degree angle.

Prep for a ‘surfier’ feel on the slopes, too, as de-tuning makes it harder to hold an edge during turns. However, if you’re a park rat with a penchant for all-mountain cruising and substantial edge hold, de-tune your edges on the outsides of your bindings. For example, focus on the edges from the front binding to the nose and the back binding to the tail. This still gives you a central contact point on the snow while ‘dulling’ your edges enough to reduce catching on rails. Experiment, too! If your board still feels too ‘grabby’, dull a little past the contact point and give it another shot. De-tune bit by bit, though – you can always dull your edges further, but it’s way trickier to reverse things and sharpen an already de-tuned edge. 

4. Repair the base

We’ve seen adults cry when a rock gauges their base. But, unfortunately, base damage is pretty inevitable  – especially if you soak up spring shreds during patchy snow coverage. And it’s important to repair any damage soon-ish rather than later. That’s because your board won’t glide the same without booking it in for a tune session. Plus, ignoring holes increases the likelihood of water entering and weakening the board’s core structure (which is never a good thing!). 

So, grab your P-Tex stick and light the end with a lighter. As it melts, allow a few drops to fall into the hole in your base. Then, extinguish the P-Tex stick and let the P-Tex dry on your board. Once it’s cooled and set, grab your scraper and scrape the repair patch flush with the base. Some gnarly riders use a razor blade for this flushing process, but you can also reach for sandpaper. Now, grab your cloth, wipe your board, and admire your work. It’s pretty much as good as new, right? 

You don’t have to worry about scratches. Although scratches make any OCD rider’s eyes twitch, they’re usually superficial. The same goes for scratches on the topsheet. However, look for any chips, cracks, or stress fractures on the topsheet. Like with the base, these can let moisture seep into the inner layers. So, if you spot something that needs filling, reach for some epoxy, a hard-setting, handy adhesive. Mix it up, apply it with a small knife or spatula, and let it dry for 24 hours. Then, file it down with a scraper, razor blade, or sandpaper, as you did with the base.

5. Finish with a wax

Waxing is the last step – but a vital one! Waxing keeps things running super smooth by reducing friction on the snow so you rip faster. But it also adds a protective layer as you shred through ice and hardpack. Think of it like adding a layer of varnish to furniture. And it’s easy to do. After cleaning your base and removing any old wax, grab your waxing iron and an appropriate wax bar. Press the wax bar to the iron while moving it around the board. Drip a line of wax around the board’s edges first and zigzag up the middle to fill the center. 

Now, grab your waxing iron and spread the wax evenly over the board’s base. Move the iron from nose to tail and spread the wax to the edges. Next, make a coffee and watch an episode of Friends while the wax cools (or your fave TV show about 25 minutes long). Once it’s dry and cold, grab your scraper and scrape the wax from the nose to the tail. Keep going until the visible wax has gone, and you have a smooth, even surface.

Don’t forget to scrape the wax off your newly sharpened edges! They won’t be able to grip the snow otherwise. Then, brush off the wax scrapes, polish your base, and Voila – you’re ready to roll! Want to know more about which wax bars to use or discover more waxing tips? Check out our in-depth guide on how to wax a snowboard.

FAQs

How often do you need to tune your snowboard?

Your board lets you know when you need to tune it. First, check the base. See any scrapes or chips? That’s a sign your board needs some TLC. Next, look at the edges. If you spot rust or small burrs, that’s also a telltale sign. Does your board look good but run slow? You most likely need a wax! 

Of course, how often you ride impacts how likely your board needs tuning. If you shred daily, prepare to tune every three to five days. However, if you’re a one-week-a-year rider, you can probably get away with a once-a-year tune. Snow quality also dictates tuning frequency. For example, charging through ice, crust, and chowder will lift wax quicker than sweet pow. So, consider your terrain and watch out for signs it’s time to tune. 

Is it safe to tune and repair your snowboard at home? 

Yes! Everything is totally doable, and you’ll be able to tune with your eyes closed in no time. Although, watch out for the waxing iron and lighter flame! 

The only exception to tuning your gear at home is if the base has one or two core-exposing gigantic holes *gulp*. If the board’s core is exposed, this typically means a shop needs to handle the repair. They’ll have the resources and equipment to create and work with new base materials. So, your favorite whip can live on season after season!

Wrapping up

Who knew tuning a snowboard was so easy? Now, when your board needs a quick edge sharpening sesh, a base repair, a fresh coat of wax – or all three – you have everything you need to refresh ‘n’ rip! 

Want to go all Yoda on us and impart your tuning wisdom? Or have a question about how to tune a snowboard? Hit us up at crew@dopesnow.com, and we’ll weave in your must-know tips and answer any questions. If you’re all good to go, though, we’ll see you on the hill – with fresh wax and sharp edges, of course!

Related reading:

• How to set up snowboard bindings
• Women's snowboarding pants / Women's snowboarding jackets
• How to wax a snowboard
• Men's snowboard clothes / Women's snowboard clothes
• Best places to snowboard in the US